After 11th Mile’s downtown Regent St. location was unceremoniously ripped to the ground to make space for a fresh office building, the Fredericton restaurant and cocktail bar wasted no time re-opening its doors. Their first night of service at 74 York Street was a packed Taco Tuesday, a comforting sign that the recent Freddy restaurant turmoil is not an omen for the fate of the town’s food and drink scene.
The Style: Modern Canadian
The Experience: Tapas-style plates and world-class cocktails enjoyed among friends
11th Mile’s rustic tapas-style dishes are served on your grandmother’s rosebud china, while the cocktail menu features inspired drinks that each list at least one ingredient you won’t recognize. The decor is clean and minimalist with bold accents of patterned wallpaper and a sterling silver wall collage. It’s a cozy/modern crossover episode that offers all the pleasures of a home-cooked meal and the smug pride of actually leaving the house for once (it’s been a rough winter).
A visit to 11th Mile is an experience, and like most good things it’s best enjoyed with friends . Be prepared to share each dish and pass drink cooties onto your neighbours.
Our three-person group walked in to the bright and cozy space and upon sitting took immediate note of the tunes. Quiet enough to have a conversation, but loud enough to want to Shazam Beck’s “Elevator Music.”
The menu gives equal real-estate to plates and drinks. It’s a fitting symbol for co-owners Jennie Wilson and Peter Tompkins’ passion for both kitchen and bar. The husband-wife duo values Maritime hospitality and returned home in 2017 after an impressive tenure in Toronto’s food & drink scene.
Our three-person party managed to have a plethora of dietary restrictions that in most establishments would make for a sub-par experience. Peter’s kitchen and our host Jennie met our needs with ease and delight, with several vegan options on the menu and many available substitutions and alternatives.
Start with a drink.
There is a joy to asking your eager-to-please server “what does this mean?”, because the anticipation of a new experience makes you understand why the energy of the 11th Mile is what it is. Each cocktail tells the story of its boozy ingredients rather than trying to cover them up with overly sweet mixers and flashy garnishes. Nice to Meet Ya is an evolved G&T with Gordon’s Gin, lime, tonic, and Fernet-Branca amaro (nice to meet you indeed, Mister Branca). You expect a pleasantly bitter cocktail but taste a pleasantly bitter, herbaceous, and deeply complex drink. Google “amaro,” and then head down to 74 York Street to put your new knowledge to work.
Get your snack on.
The Togarashi-Spiced Popcorn has been on the menu since day one, and rightfully so. Between bites of the salty and spicy snack, a friend described to us why he hates popcorn while simultaneously shoving handfuls of it into his mouth.
The Beef Tostada is a bite-sized appetizer that someone described as “the only time I’ve had cilantro and didn’t hate it.” Even haters can’t dislike this perfectly crunchy and fresh bite topped with a familiar and cozy stewed beef.
Eat your vegetables.
If you’ve read the new Canada’s Food Guide, you understand that vegetarianism is no longer a “trend.” It’s the new reality, and your health will thank you. 11th Mile gets that the way to win over meat lovers is with a hearty dish. The Roasted Cauliflower has big bites with full texture and crunchy peanuts, and it is coated with ssamjang, a sweet and spicy Korean sauce whose fermented soybean flavour gives the dish a little “mmmm, what’s that?” This is just one of the exciting flavours that Chef Peter picked up while working as Head Chef at restaurants in midtown Toronto.
Meat lovers, rejoice.
Do you think we forgot about you? The Beef and Brussels Sprouts will make you understand why cooking shows are always talking about texture. The creamy shaved brussels sprout salad has little crouton surprises, and the gochujang vinaigrette brings out the best in the beef that is prepared to a crowd-pleasing pink. It’s simply awesome and will have you re-reading the menu to plan your next 11th Mile meal.
Don’t cry over fermented milk.
We heard the list of desserts and gave a very pretentious “surprise us.” And then it happened. Sometimes you have an experience that is so extreme and perfect that you’re embarrassed to talk about it. Unfortunately this is a restaurant review, and I am not a proud woman. One bite of the Chocolate Panna Cotta and Beck walked in the front door and started serenading our table. The rosebud china in the corner booth burst into a thousand shining pieces. Tears were shed (literally), and there may be plans to personally commission a large trifle of 11th Mile Chocolate Panna Cotta.
Hyperbole aside, 11th Mile is one of the best bars and restaurants in New Brunswick. The eclectic flavours will feed your inner foodie, and the flexible menu and staff will satisfy a group of any size and quirk. Don’t worry about waiting for the “right night.” Grab a quick drink and snack before a busy evening, or sit back like royalty and stay awhile. How ever you choose to experience 11th Mile, you have got to try the panna cotta.
Recommended dishes:
- Roasted Cauliflower
- Beef and Brussels Sprouts
- Chocolate Panna Cotta
- Nice to Meet Ya