It is an understatement to say that cocktails are having a moment; they are, in fact, having a decade. With the return of classics, old favourites, and a train-load of new concoctions and ingredients, cocktails have not been this front and center of the Stained Wood stage since the weeks following prohibition.
Eager to meet that task, 11th Mile has thrown down quite the gauntlet in a city with its fair share of bars and mixers to work them.
11th Mile opened its doors in Fredericton, New Brunswick in September of 2017, and it seems that they hit the ground running. The bar-forward establishment was the brain child of Jennie Wilson and her husband Peter Tompkins.
Tompkins spent a number of years as a chef working the high end kitchens and eateries of Toronto. Wilson spent her time developing a deep appreciation for all things cocktail and what dreams may come from that mind set. When they decided to return to Fredericton, to bring that knowhow home to roost, they hoped they had a concept that would resonate with the crowd here in Fredericton.
Being a cocktail location was not really at the for-front of their plan, originally, but it soon became clear once the restaurant started to take shape, that the bar and what was produced there, would be central to their identity.
The location on Regent street in the heart of Fredericton’s downtown, is a quiet enough spot from the outside, but upon entering the dark room, and seeing the bright kitchen beyond, it is clear that the bar running down the length of the left side, is the center piece of the space. And behind that bar, on most nights, you will find Jennie and her up and coming star-mixologist, Travis Perry.
It is obvious to the trained eye that their cocktail game is strong. Gone is the tidal wave of repeating, backlit bottles to impress the martini crowd. In its place is a simple, and very carefully chosen line up of a few, select liquors and accompanying vermouths and Amaris which form the backbone of the program. Many of the bottles bear labels that are not immediately familiar, but at the moment of first sip of whatever you order it becomes clear that they have been chosen carefully.
Sitting in the front seat behind the bar, at the mic as it were, is Travis. Travis and Jennie seem to work in perfect harmony as they develop and deliver a house Craft Cocktail line up that would stand out in any major metropolis. (To this I can give credence, your correspondent spent the weeks leading up to this visit on a tour of high-end cocktail establishments from Toronto to Vancouver and Seattle, some of which appear on the best bars in the world short list. I can attest without reservation, that the drinks being designed and served at 11th Mile would stand out among the very best of these).
I began the night with a switch up on an old favorite. The Chocolate Rum Old Fashioned uses a lovely Flor de Caña 7 year old Rum, a Demerara simple syrup, Angostura Bitters and just a single drop of Aztec Chocolate bitters. The effect is rapturous, with the rich sweetness of the rum and syrup heightened by the bitter chocolate.
That followed with a popular house classic, the New York Sour. Travis reminded me that contrary to the name, the drink was actually devised in Chicago in the late 1800’s where an ambitious bartender was fond of adding a snap of claret to cocktails. He constructed the drink using Buffalo Trace Bourbon, which is a richer Bourbon with a peppering of anise that makes it a favourite among mixers in general, and Travis and Jennie in particular. He then added lemon, simple syrup and a Batasiolo Langhe Rosso red wine float. It was a gorgeous sour, it’s tart flavor deepened by the addition of the smooth Italian wine. This could be a drink to take you through the entire evening.
Next came a slightly lighter fare, and Jennie original. Floats Your Boat is made of good things. Starting again with the Flor de Caña 7 year old, Travis added Demerara Simple Syrup, Lemon and Black Walnut Bitters (an old favorite of mine). The light, foamy head added to the easy flavor which made the cocktail far too easy to put away. This was a sneaky one.
I finished the evening with the house standard Old Fashioned. A perfectly constructed stalwart that Travis put together using Buffalo Trace Bourbon, Simple Syrup, Angostura Bitters and Orange Bitters. The Buffalo Trace matches perfectly with the Orange Bitters, and Travis gets the ratios and mixing to a level of fine art. It was perfect from start to finish.
Looking to the future, this team has ideas. Jennie shared with me her plans for developing some Beer Based cocktails, and a few other ideas that will remain secret for now, spoiler alerts being what they are. They have also hosted numerous competitions and events, showcasing themselves and the other establishments nearby, to fantastic affect. 11th Mile, from the amazing cocktails all the way to the stellar food menu, is playing for keeps. The residents of Fredericton are going to be delighted and sometimes challenged by what creations will be coming from behind the bar at 11th Mile, and I will be waiting patiently for the next time I walk through those doors and am greeted by a smiling Travis, who will be delivering my favorite words: “Hey, I have been working on something I think you will like.”